Buenos Aires off the beaten path (part 1): Abasto + Boedo

Abasto is a neighbourhood of tango. It was inhabited by important figures, like Aníbal Troilo, Osvaldo Pugliese and the most famous of singers and Porteño icon: Carlos Gardel.

What to visit?

  • Bar El Progreso

This is one of the few places in Buenos Aires where Carlos Gardel sang (among other tango famous figures, like Tita Merello) which has been preserved till today. Part of the counter dates from those times.

  • Pasaje Carlos Gardel

During the weekends, Argentine tango and folklore shows (zambas and chacareras, for example) are offered along this pedestrian alley in the open air. Between Jean Jaurès and Anchorena st.

  • The Alley of the Fillets

“Fillet” is a decorative way of painting developed in Buenos Aires at the same time the first tango was performed: by the ends of 1900. Fillet art derives from European styles such as French, German and mainly Italian art. It was firstly used to decorate horse-pulled carriages, and further on, buses. Jean Jaurès 700.

  • Abasto market

In the decade of 1890, a fair settled down in the zone. Carts used to sell fruits and vegetables (sale of meat was expressly forbidden). Current building was inaugurated in 1934; the market (the largest in the city) had functioned until 1984. Finally, in 1998 it was reopened as a shopping center. Av. Corrientes 3247

  • Carlos Gardel House Museum

In 1926, Carlos Gardel bought this house to live here with his mother, Berta. The singer lived here from 1927 to 1933. On that last year, he traveled to Paris. The museum was inaugurated in 2003. Gardel was born in Toulouse, France, in 1890. Two years later, he traveled to Buenos Aires with his mother, Berthe Gardes. He grew up in this neighborhood; this is why he was called: Morocho del Abasto. In the decade of 1910, he started to sing rural songs and milongas. Some years later, he would be the pioneer of the “singing” tango. He is for sure the most popular artist of our country either at national and international level. He died in a plane crash in Medellín, Colombia, in 1935. Jean Jaurès 735

The neighbourhood of Boedo competes with Abasto for being recognized as the most tango-related area of the city. Among many others from Boedo, one of the famous artists were Homero Manzi, author of the tango lyrics: “San Juan y Boedo antiguo”.

What to visit?

  • Esquina Homero Manzi

A typical tango house, where people can have dinner while watching a show. Homero manzi (1907-1951) visited the bar – that was located at this corner and opened in 1927. For that reason, since the late 20th century, this place has taken his name. Manzi wrote, among others, tango lyrics such as “Sur”, “Malena” and “Che, bandoneón”. Av. San Juan 3601

  • Esquina Osvaldo Pugliese

This tango house is found where the old Bar Alabama was located. Frequently, Osvaldo Pugliese, one of the most important artists of the porteña music visited this old bar. Pugliese (1905-1995) was pianist, director and songwriter. Its orchestra’s style is considered as one of the most significant influences on tango. Among his famous tangos, there appear “Recuerdo”, “Negracha” and “La yumba” “Recuerdo” is the name of the first tango published by Osvaldo Pugliese. Boedo y Carlos Calvo.

  • Bar Alenjo

It is a bar with billiard tables with more than 50 years of history in the neighbourhood. In the 1940s it was known as “Bar Boedo”. It has 14 billiard tables. It opens daily from 8am to 1am. Av. Boedo 825.


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